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Photo reblogged from Vehicle Passion with 3 notes
zedlove260z: I’m just finishing off the last of the gas pipework, the boss asked me to build a gas barbeque so he could entertain any clients who come into the showroom.
This bad ass barbeque is a six burner flame thrower, just lift the hood, slap on a banger and it will cook faster than a Ferrari @ Monza.
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zedlove260z: Hi all, thought it about time that I put up some progress pic’s of where I’m @ with my Fairlady 260Z rebuild.
This pic shows the new upgraded center console which I got in from the States to replace my original. The original console had many cracks, splits and scratches in it, in various places.
I also had to buy in a new twin choke cable, as the original one had broken the linkage where the cable attaches to the choke lever. A new gearshift lever boot with clip retainers were bought to replace the boot which was torn, the ashtray slider was also replaced, along with the ashtray, as the aluminum ashtray had surcome to corrosion. The new ashtray has been chromed and looks a million dollars once the slider is pulled back open.
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zedlove260z: The new upgraded console featured an extra switch slot, which is centered in between the defogger switch and the switch which I had installed to operate the electric aerial. I bought a blanking cover to hide this spare switch slot in the plastic, some some day in the future I might make use of it.
American 260Z owners will notice there are some differences in the available switches for the center console, some have an amber highlighted choke light which comes on once the choke lever is pulled back, to open the chokes on the carbs, or a green highlighted hazard light, as opposed to the hazard switch in its basic form, shown here on mine.
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zedlove260z: Here you can see the upgraded back tray, which on the original console was fully open. I had to make a slight adjustment to the spring lever clip, on the front of the lid, where there hook latch releases the lid. You can just see the small plastic hook to the top of the lid and the backwards L profile where the hook clips into once the lid is closed. Being from the States, the lid is hinged to open up towards the driver but it will open facing away from me, seeing as my Z is right hand drive.
It’s not a major for me and I actually prefer it that way, for ease of access.
zedlove260z: Here’s a look @ the brand new twin choke cable already installed and ready for the console to be installed as one complete unit, instead of adding in bits here and there once the console is near in place.
zedlove260z: The only parts left in the car are the motor, gearbox and rear diff assembly, everything else has been photographed, removed and stored into my other storage shed. This motor and gearbox will come out midway through next month and will come out so that I can gain better access to the lower firewall, to see just how much rust there is, that I need to cut out and replace.
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zedlove260z: This is where most of the rust is eating up my body shell, tailgate, hatch hinge points, fuel point sub/ inner panel, hatch trim and rear valance panels.
I’ve bought another body shell to donor panel parts across to my car, where said bits haven’t been available on the net or through other Z car club members to buy.
Hopefully as worse as it looks, it won’t cost me too much in the pocket to get it back to rust free steel.
zedlove260z: Major rust can be seen in the passengers side, or left side pillar, this rust goes all the way through the pillar and needs fully cutting out. I will pre install a series of bracing supports either side of the area that needs to be worked on, so that all the existing dimensions are kept intact, so that I don’t end up with a leaking windscreen or door fitment where the door won’t shut or align properly after the repair.
More dreaded rust in both floor pans and all of these areas will be fully remade and welded in by me in the not too distant future.
A friend of mine has a sheet metal press that he uses for his work and he’s offered it to me to use, to make up the bits that I need. I can’t wait to start bending some metal into submission, lol.
The rebuild process for the interior is going to be very sparse, by that I mean, there will be no carpet, only soundproofing on the firewall and transmission tunnel, the floor pan from the sills to the bottom edge of the transmission tunnel with be done in a checker grid panel. People tell me that I’m mad not to put carpet back in, well, I drove it for two and a half years without any carpet or sound proofing in it @ all and I can say without a doubt, that it was the most enjoyable two and a half years of listening to my L6 motor roaring its arse off. After all it was designed from a racing version wasn’t it?, how many racing cars do you see carpet installed in them, my build is going to be as near a race build as I can get it, without the authorities getting too ballsy on all of the components that I’m putting into it.
Hell, the car will be ten times safer once built, than what it came out of the factory, now that has to be a good thing for a 40 year old car where a car in Japan wasn’t expected to live past 5 years.
Nissan still did themselves proud though, in what they achieved with this car, with the technology that they had to use @ the time.
zedlove260z: Rust, rust, everywhere that the eye can see, me car sat neglected on some Japanese wharf for so many years without it getting any protection from the elements, rust was always going to win the battle, but it won’t win the war once I’m finished with it.
zedlove260z: These are the original rims that my Z came into the country with, they look like Equips don’t they, but on inspection, they are not. I’ve decided to stay with this style as they looked mint when my car, in its glory days, was shining and showing.
I’m not sure what I’ll do with this set, as they won’t be wide enough for the feet that I plan to put around the car, but I’m open to offers or suggestions. All rimes are the same width across and take a 185/70 tyre.
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